With the adornment of this beautiful façade in the style of the Second Empire that once again entrances us, Lhardy has conscientiously preserved the courtly and aristocratic ambience of the Madrid of the 19th century, and the beginning of the 21st century as well as the best formulas of the European cuisine.
To dine at Lhardy allows one to recall a stately world, while one enjoys the best gastronomy.

  
     
 

The famous restaurant Lhardy enters its third century of existence on the same site at Carrera de San Jéronimo where it opened its doors in 1839, when Madrid was the court of the Governess Queen, who had just extended the Vergara Treaty between Espartero and Maroto.

A great part of Spain’s history was devised within the elegance of these walls, beneath its lamps that evoke the formal style and the solemnity of the romanticism, and amongst its tableware that continue to underline the most delicate gastronomic refinements. In this unalterable ambience, with the stimulus of food delicacies and wine sampling, decisions like overthrowing kings and politicians, republics, introductions to new dynasties, restorations, regencies and dictatorships.

The time that passes and returns, that always retakes the dining rooms at Lhardy, like the intimacy of the White dining room and the oriental fantasy of the colonial dream of the Japanese dining room, to continue weaving the secret history of Spain, but, above all, past and future blend in the unsure light of the famous mirror, where our images cohabit with the shadows of personalities that were reflected here and we once again meet with so many friends of the aristocracy, of the art world and the written word, now long gone. In the mirror of Lhardy, as Azorín once said, “we disappear into eternity”, and we enter and exit the afterlife.
  
     
 
 
 
 
  Emilio Huguenin, born in Montbéliard, of Swiss parents, had been a reporter in Bésançon, a cook in Paris, and a “restaurateur” in his own establishment in Bordeux, the centre of the Spanish exiles, where they had met up
with partisans of José Bonaparte and his old enemies the liberals, persecuted by Ferdinand VII.

At the same time that Emilio Huguenin decides to open his establishment in Madrid, the supreme monarch now dead, the exiles in Bordeux return to Spain. Isabel II is a nine-yearold child and the idealogical turmoil and the romantic style were about to begin. José Altabella says in his magnificent book titled “Historical Panaorama of a Romantic Restaurant” that the name of the establishment was suggested vía the famous Café Hardy in the Boulevard des Italiens en Paris, that would later on be converted into the Maison Dorée. The owner, Emilio Huguenin, takes the name of his business as his own
and becomes Emilio Lhardy.

The Carrera de San Jerónimo has at the time the seal of a fashionable street, in the style of the Rue de la Paix, whose appearance is contributed some years later by the shop facades of the Mellerio jewellery, who were goldsmiths during the first and second empires. In 1837, as if with the use of fireworks, the gunshot that put an end to Larra’s own life and the speech that Zorilla gave at his fune- ral announced like thunder the great solemnity
of romanticism, confirmed by its appearance in the most important works by
Espronceda, and other works premiered at the time like “La Conjuración de Venecia” by Martínez de la Rosa; “Don Álvaro”, by Duque de Rivas; “El Trovador” by García Gutiérrez, and “Don Juan Tenorio” by Zorrilla, which all happened around the time of the opening of Lhardy. A banker transforms the Stock Exchange and builds railways; his name was Salamanca, a recurring client of Lhardy, and in 1841 he celebrates there the baptism of his first born son, Fernando Salamanca Livermore.


How wonderful! They illuminate with gaslight to make the ambience in Lhardy more luxurious. Around the mid 19th century the only thing that is talked about in Madrid is how the inevitable place to dine in luxury is at Lhardy, and Pascual Madoz includes this in his Geographic Dictionary. Isabel II escaped from her palace to dine at Lhardy, as would, after the restoration, Alfonso XII, who was accompanied by the Duke of Sesto, Benalúa, Tamames y Betrán de Lis.

  
     
 
 
 


Among the historical suggestions that Lhardy offers, it is interesting to know something of the personality of its decorator, Rafael Guerrero, father to the famous actress, Maria Guerrero. This forerunner of a profession that had to yet acquire an esthetic and functional significance in our time, emigrated to Paris during his adolescence, and there had the luck to learn the arts of making furniture and interior decorating, until his reputation reached the Empress Eugenia, who employed him at the Palais des Tiuleries. When he returned to Madrid, Guerrero opened a furniture store in the Calle de Caballero de Gracia, but his prestige centred on his talent as an interior decorator.

The fashion during the second empire, gifted with the elegance of the high class bourgeoisie that comes back to captivate us, was profiled in
the design of Lhardy’s façade, elaborated with magnificent mahogany wood from Cuba, as a symbol of what used to be our provinces overseas. The interior decoration of the store, with its two counters facing each other and the mi-
rror at the end, over a console table that holds the “bouilloire” (heater) and the refined refreshment stall, remains intact, just as it was projected and built by Rafael Guerrero. The dining rooms, conceived as the
Isabelino salon, the White salon and the Japanese salon, conserve the coverings of painted wallpaper of the era; the chimneys, trimmings and adornments, are mentioned in the works of Galdós, Mariano de Cavia, Azorín ó Ramón Gómez de la Serna. Soon after renovating the decoration, in 1885 the famous dinners were founded, so praised by the gastronomic specialists like Doctor Thebussen.

A “Lhardy dinner” was always exquisite, with fillets of sole a la Orly, duck drumsticks, turkey and chicken with watercress and other delicacies that were absolute novelties at the court. One must also add to
this evocation the magnificent French wines that decorated the table. When Emilio Lhardy died, the dynasty continued with his son Agustín, a prominent painter and printmaker, who knew how to admirably combine the artistic activity and social bearing of a true gentleman with the constant surmounting of his business.

Among his artistic friends, the most intimate was Mariano Benlliure, who spent certain times living at Lhardy’s, and inviting personalities of the political, aristocratic, journalistic and artistic worlds.

  
     
 
 
     
   
 
 
     
 


Among the dining rooms at Lhardy, the Japanese salon is the one that holds the most secrets in the history of Spain, where many conspiracies and illicit intrigues took place. It was the favoured place of General Primo de Rivera for private meetings with ministers and personalities of the dictatorship, and in contrast, it was decided here that don Niceto Alcalá Zamora would be proclaimed president of the republic. But the ambience of this exotic salon conserves other more frivolous memories, like that of the cupletista Consuelo Bello “La Fornanina”, who became the most successful attraction in Madrid during the first quarter of the 20th century, in who’s heavens shone dazzling stars of the light opera like La Goya and La Chelito. La Fornanina, who had triumphed in a small theatre also named the Japanese salon, liked to gather
together several friends in this dining room to celebrate her successes.

  
     
 
 
 
When the civil war ended, the mirror at Lhardy’s once again reflected images of illustrious Spanish intellectual figures, some of whom had been ostracized due to the politic situation and others attracted by the desire to share their prestige and exchange of ideas. The “consommé” that had reunited the elegant ladies in other times, along with a glass of tokay, now illustrated the gatherings at sundown, counting on the essential presence of the eminent psychiatrist and writer José Miguel Sacristán, impeccably dressed, with a
shrewd eye and ironic humour, fencing urging conversations on the same level of ingenuity of his great friend Julio Camba. The painter Ugnacio Zuloaga, the sculptor Juan Cristóbal, the bullfighter Domingo Ortega, Antonio Díaz-Cañabete, Chueca-Goitia, the Count and Countess of Villagonzalo, the married
couple García San Miguel, the actor Enrique Chicote and other fellow gatherers made up those evening reunions that served as incentive for the excellent half combinations, whose secret flavour was impossible to recreate in any other place. Almost all of them have disappeared through the mirror towards eternity, just like so many others from previous generations during the long voyage of two centuries. As will ourselves and our sons and grandchildren… we will pass through to the most remote planes of the mirror, but, as if in a sentimental bolero, our lips will carry the sweet and sour taste of the half combinations, and in our hearts, the memory of the impressive elite that we have known in Lhardy..
  
     
 
 
 


Lhardy has known how to conscientiously conserve its intellectual and aristocratic atmosphere during the past one and half centuries.Those who have contributed to this persistent task, after Emilio and Agustín
Lhardy and his grandson-in-law, Adolfo Temes, were the collaborators who later became proprietors of the business; Ambrosio Aguado, Head Baker, the Head Chef Antonio Feito, as well as their heirs and descendants.

The dedication and courtesy of Gabriel Novo, José María García Salomón and Ambrosio Aguado, as well the Head Chef, and also coproprietor, Frutos Feito Paláez, have all defined very difficult decades, who knew how to act with the most sharing generosity towards several of their clients, very prominent per-
sonalities of the cultural and scientific worlds, who had to face adverse circumstances in the changes of the post-war years. This generosity, of which we have witnessed, should be added to the tradition of Lhardy with permanent memory.

At the end of the 20th Century a new enthusiasm unfolds in Lhardy due to the emphasis employed by Milagros Novo, who is organizing the updating of the infrastructure, with a great care to all detail and raising the level of the gastronomy to its highest position that this company has ever known in its long history. At present, with the incorporation of Javier Pagola Aguado, Lhardy looks to the future.

The European influence that has characterized the cuisine at Lhardy when the distances and the borders were then less accessible, is now present at its tables, with the dignity of the great French wines of “château”, together with the eminent reserves of Rioja or Duero wines. It brings back the prestige of the best “fois-gras” from Alsatia, and the line of game hunting cooking in unsurpassable creations like the Austrian fallow deer or the pheasant with grapes. The historic recipes of Lhardy, like the stuffed chicken or the veal Prince Orloff, which have been recovered with all their refinement, while the fish dishes highlights the new creations of the hake filled with seafood and the Cumberland sauce, the lobster a la rusa, and the splendid symphony of sea bass with king prawns and sole with champagne, following in the tradition of the house. Let us lift our glasses to the height of our hearts and toast to the future of Lhardy, from its happy past of love and luxury.

  
   
 
 
 
 
 

Lhardy, an historic and literary setting in Madrid of the last two centuries, as it begins its third in existence has undergone a discreet extension, with three salons that increase its capacity and beauty, in keeping with the romantic era style of the establishment.

Conserving the evocating atmosphere that miraculously persists in Lhardy, intact after so many years, has been a task of marked sensibility. It refers to rooms that have been acquired from old auxiliary areas in
the same building and others developed in an adjacent apartment. I would like to state that nothing has been altered in the intangible ambience at Lhardy.
A respectful decoration has established an environment that would be difficult to distinguish from the other classic dining rooms at Lhardy, with frieze works in the woodwork and ceiling ornamentation with turn-of-the-century plaster work. All of the paintings that are presented in these new salons, with the exception of two by the maestro Palmero, are originals by Austin Lhardy, the excellent impressionist painter and proprietor of this establishment, a disciple of Haes and an outstanding landscape painter like
his friends, Beruete, Regoyos and Ramón Casas. Using very good criteria, these dining rooms have been designed with names that remember the musical fondness of Emilio and Agustin Lhardy, dedicating them to Sarasate, Gayarre
and Tamberlick, regular café companions at the romantic restaurante.

This musical nuance, far from other partial suggestions of historic protagonists, makes a very pleasing invocation of the new salons, where mirrors and furniture of the past era are presented, the crystal work from Bohemia and the tableware from Limoges, all from the Lhardy’s antique collections.

The musical reference is appropriate when one appreciates the orchestration that the gastronomic celebration requires. At Lhardy great care is taken in every detail, from the table presentation to the final touch of the dishes, as it uses this diplomatic virtue to foretell the clients taste.

The menu has been updated profiling its agility in the wide design of international cuisine, but at the same time it maintains the traditional dishes of the very pure Castilian style of Madrid’s cuisine, which are the Stew (Cocido) and tripe (Callos), the quintessence of Madrid’s culinary arts which has always been popular, either by the Kings of Spain, the ecclesiastic hierarchy, or the regular folk. This is achieved by the craftsmen that make up the team at Lhardy, who are Ricardo Quintana and Antonio Fraga in the kitchen. The Head of the bakery, where the exquisite confectioner’s creations come from, is Jose Mª Monge. The good running of the table service is developed essentially by the restaurant managers, Segundo Salvador and Valentín Monge. The chief salesman in the shop is Agustín Rodríguez, and his second-in-charge is Juan Francisco Hernández Vicente. In charge of the administration department is Mª Antonia Alcalde. During the 21st Century the splendour at the tables and the prestige of the gastronomy at Lhardy will make up one of its best symbols.

  
     
 
 
 

Although the name of Lhardy is associated with history, the new generations will have the opportunity of getting to know a place where they can cover, via the different offers, a gastronomy that is always fashionable.
The produce used is chosen every day at the best establishments in Madrid. This is the only way that a good dish can be elaborated, with this unbeatable process of selection. Each and every one of the products offered at Lhardy, be it in the shop, the restaurant or the catering service, are hand-made in the kitchen; A good example is the very bread that is served at the tables is elaborated in the restaurant’s own bakery.
Lhardy renews its stock daily, totally handmade, as the rule of the house is that the same product will not be offered during more than one day to its clients.

As does its confectionary –croissants, Swiss buns, pie and tarts– and its cold meats
–scarlet sole, boar’s head, sweet ham– all are products of Lhardy, as well as the dishes that are prepared for sale in the shop.

Through Lhardy the European haute cuisine came to Madrid, and the refined international confectionary. The great pieces of game, the mounted and stuffed fowl, the masterly sauces, the beef relevées or the baked fish has distinguished its prolonged culinary experience.

The historic recipes of Lhardy, like the stuffed chicken or the veal Prince Orloff, which have been recovered with all their refinement, while the fish dishes highlights the new creations of the hake filled with seafood and the Cumberland sauce, the lobster a la rusa, and the splendid symphony of sea
bass with king prawns and sole with cham-pagne, following the tradition of the house.

But Lhardy from its beginnings has also been attentive with the popular dishes of the local cuisine, that of which at least three typical dishes of Madrid have reached star status on its ranges: the cocido Madrileño (stew), callos a la madrileña (tripe) and riñones al jerez (kidneys in sherry).

The menu has been updated profiling its agility in the wide design of international cuisine and in the incorporation of a great variety of soups, creams, salads and vegetables.

At Lhardy great care is taken in every detail, from the table presentation to the final touch of the dishes, and it uses this diplomatic virtue to foretell the clients taste.

Its wine stock deserves a mention apart, pioneer of the cavas in restaurants in Spain, an assortment of the great French wines of “château”, together with the eminent reserves of la Rioja or el Duero, without forgetting to end any meal with their liquors.

Lhardy has three original salons: the Isabelino, with a capacity for 60 people; the Japanese salon for multiple uses or in private with a capacity for 25 people, and the White salon, a private dining room for 2 to 10 people. And three newer salons; the Sarasate ( up to 24 people); Gayarre (from 2 to 10 people) and the Tamberlick (from 2 to 8 people).

A restaurant that conserves the ambience of evocation, right in the centre of Madrid and is now entering into the 21st Century, it is and always has been a work of marked sensibility.
Also, for those who do not wish to travel, an extensive list of exquisite dishes, appetizers, cold meats and confectionary supply the possibility of having the quality of Lhardy anywhere that one wants. A cocktail party, a business lunch, a wedding, a family dinner or any other celebration, prepared
with all the care that this establishment has always done. This offer goes from the preparation of the dishes to the table service and the personnel that attend.